Friday, December 30, 2011

Cu Chi Tunnels

Cu Chi is a district of greater HCMC and during the war had a population of about 80,000. The tunnel network became legendary during the 60s for its role in helping the VC gain control of this large farming area. Built over 25 years, there were more than 250 km of tunnels – a poorly equipped peasant army’s response to America’s high tech ordinance.
We decided to book the tour through our hotel – 20 dollars each with lunch – and we were picked up at 7:45 am in a large bus but moved to a smaller but comfortable a/c van. Our group was about 12 and on route we made the requisite ‘souvenir’ stop for tourists.
A group of Vietnamese worked on creating lacquer paintings. They were mass produced so there wasn’t any originality in the works; but it was interesting to see the process. A picture is carved out or drawn onto a piece of plywood board and mother of pearl glued on. A thin layer of lacquer is applied and polished; and repeated 5 - 10 times. Lacquer is a clear sap that comes from 6 different species of trees in Vietnam. At this studio, workers scraped away the lacquer to reveal the mother of pearl picture underneath, but artists can also rub the lacquer with hair or fine sandpaper to reveal the picture beneath.
It took about an hour to get to Cu Chi and our group headed to a tiny opening to the tunnels that you might have seen in photos before. When not in use, a board covers the entrance and then is well concealed under leaves and brush. The guide asked for volunteers to climb in and a skinny fellow stepped up. The Vietnamese are tiny so only skinny Westerners could actually manage to get in and out without getting stuck.
When the tunnels were being constructed the dirt would be taken to the river, dumped into bomb craters, or made into air holes that looked like termite hills. Trench like cavities allowed the rebels to mount an attack and then quickly disappear into another tunnel entrance. Tunnels were many metres underground and sometimes became so narrow, the Vietnamese would be forced to crawl while carrying babies, weapons, food, and supplies.


The Vietnamese used a variety of guerrilla tactics and weapons. They would collect U.S. ordinance and melt down the metal to make bombs, weapons, and booby traps.  A camouflaged trapdoor opens to reveal bamboo spikes below -
And a trap with metal spikes awaits soldiers in rice fields. American soldiers would wade through the water and step into the opening of this booby trap puncturing the sole of their foot. If they tried to lift their foot out, their legs would be punctured by the spikes on the sides.
There were several examples of homemade weapons – all equally horrific. I couldn't imagine having to walk through rice fields, rivers, and jungles, in the heat, with the bugs and the rain, and these booby traps all around me.
After this, we could either take a break or shoot some AK47s or M16s so Ian and I tried our hand at shooting. We paid for our 10 bullets each and followed a man to the firing range where we pulled on our ear protection and stepped up to our weapon.
Pulling that trigger sent the rifle reeling into my chest and it hurt. It was also very loud – louder than any movie or TV show.
It was an incredible experience – a bit overwhelming to be honest. After three bullets, I had enough; Ian had enough after one – but we fired all 10 and gladly left the range. I had no idea how we did nor did I care.  It’s funny because we thought it would be a ‘fun’ experience but it wasn’t at all. It was disturbing. It would take a lot of skill to shoot and actually hit a target when under enemy fire.
We were then presented with the opportunity to go into the tunnels - which had been enlarged for Westerners. We climbed carefully down the steps and into the narrow and low tunnel. You either crawl, or if you’re short like me, bend over.  Red lights illuminate the way but some areas are unlit and totally black. It is claustrophobic. Every 20 metres there is an exit and after about 60 metres, I had enough. There’s nothing to see, you just crawl along. Ian finished the entire tunnel and said they went up and down and became even narrower forcing him to crawl on his knees.
After the tunnels we had a little break for some tea and tapioca root, a popular Vietnamese snack. The root is peeled and steamed and dipped in a mix of salt and pepper. It was delicious.
Following this, we watched a ‘60s propaganda film on the Cu Chi people and then headed back to HCMC for lunch.  Lunch was fantastic – spring rolls, omelette with oyster sauce, a vegetable stir fry and some mushrooms and rice and custard.
The day finished up around 2:30 – 3pm and a taxi was called to take us back to the hotel.  We went for a walk to the busy city centre past the famous Rex Hotel where U.S. army officials stayed and reporters would receive daily briefings during the war.  Close to the hotel are the city hall, the opera house and a statue of Ho Chi Minh.

Thus concluded another informative and interesting day in Vietnam.


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