Finishing up in Bangkok

Shangri La Dinner Cruise

After looking at several dinner cruises, we booked the more expensive one with Shangri La Hotel because we believe: you get what you pay for. Booking by phone was easy and we were told to be there at 7:15pm for check in. 

Ian scoped out the location earlier so we’d be able to find it easily in the dark. This was a good thing as getting to the pier was a bit of a challenge. We took the skytrain and the Shangri La Hotel is right at the stop but it’s a giant complex spread out along the river. We took a tuktuk to the entrance and what a hotel; gorgeous but pricey.

We went through the hotel to the river and the pier. We were invited to sit in the bar area with a view of the river. The large white boat covered in rope lights arrived and we were shown to our secluded table on the deck outside. The table was right by the doors to the air conditioned section where the food was so we had the benefit of the view outside and the cool air from the a/c. I’m glad I booked a table outside because it would have been difficult to see through the reflections cast on the windows inside.

The boat took off on schedule and we headed upstream. The service was impeccable. Every time I returned from the buffet, someone would be there to pull out my chair. Our dishes were cleared away quickly and our water glasses kept full. The food was scrumptious and a fantastic spread: fresh bread, cheeses, sashimi, salads, smoked salmon, spinach and ricotta ravioli, chicken and cream sauce, Thai and Western food. We didn’t eat as much as we thought we would and were astonished when we watched tiny Asian women return again and again to fill their plates!

The cruise itself was a disappointment. The big draw of a dinner cruise is seeing the Grand Palace, Wat Arun and Wat Pho lit up at night but of course, the river was still too high and the boat couldn’t get under the bridge upstream from the hotel. We were highly disappointed and to be honest, had we known we would not have booked the cruise. The cruises had been cancelled because of the high river so when they were running again, we naively figured everything was back to normal. Instead of going upriver, the boat spent more time down river where there was nothing to see except hotels, condos and restaurants. If we return, we might try again.

Dusit Palace

Our admission ticket to the Grand Palace included admission to Dusit Park with its government buildings, Vimanmek Mansion and exhibition halls so we didn’t have to pay extra here. As a royal property there is a dress code in effect but Ian went for a sarong over shorts because it’s cooler than long pants. My pants just past my knees were appropriate. Every building on this property has a no shoes, no bags, no camera, no cellphone rule but lockers and racks are provided.

 Our first building was Vimanmek Mansion, the world’s largest golden teak house built in 1900 by royal command of Rama V. The building’s elaborate architectural style reflects Western influence. There are two right angled wings and a four story octagonal area where the king once resided. Rooms display furniture, photos, and handicrafts.

The next buildings held photographs that the King had taken of the Queen, their children, the people, and the flood in the early 80s. There were also photos of the King playing music with Louis Armstrong and Benny Goodman. Following this, we headed to Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall and I decided to get a photo of the building. As I was walking I saw a huge monitor lizard about a metre long run into the brush. It was snake-like and too fast for me to get a photo, but here is one of the Throne Hall.

Construction of the building began in 1903 and it is served as a throne hall at that time.  Abhisek Dusit is a one storey building decorated with intricate fretwork, coloured glass, and gables. Inside were many exhibits of finely woven baskets, jewel cases, purses, etc. Some were covered in sparkly blue beetle shells; a popular method that Thai artisans use to decorate. The beetles only live for 3 months and apparently the wings can only be used when the beetles die of natural causes.

I peeked out a side window and there was the lizard’s head poking out from the brush. I called Ian over and we watched it cautiously slither across the brick path. I wished I had my camera but of course, cameras were not allowed inside the building.

Our final stop was the most spectacular, but unfortunately, my pants were not appropriate as women had to wear skirts. I had no choice but to buy (not rent) a sarong for 40 baht. It wasn’t expensive but it was ugly and heavy and I didn’t want to carry it around for the rest of the day. On exit, I tried to donate it back but they refused it.

The Ananda Samakhom Throne Hall was built in 1907, cost 15 million baht and took 8 years to complete.  The two storey white marble building was constructed in Italian Renaissance and Neo Classic style.

The building sits at the end of a wide boulevard and is often used for Royal ceremonies. Several domes on the second floor are covered with elaborate paintings of Kings and underneath the largest dome is the throne. The hall now holds a permanent exhibition many of which were gold replicas of pavilion thrones decorated in diamonds, rubies, emeralds and beetle wings.

To enter the exhibition hall one first passes through an octagonal room decorated with woven vines and coloured beetle wings. Then you enter the expansive exhibition hall and its many pieces kept safe under glass. I was glad to have the audio tour as it explained what each piece was, how long it took to create, how many artists worked on each piece and whether it was presented to the Queen or the King on occasion of their birthday.

I wish I could show you photos because they were brilliant pieces taking artisans months and sometimes years to complete. There were also large silk embroidered and carved wooden screens, a table set for a royal banquet, and cloth and silks. On the lower level were embroidery winners from an annual competition and examples of weaving. My favourite piece was a small ship made of gold with a mermaid and a monkey dangling off the front from fine gold thread. The exhibit really was stunning.

Our last day…

Ian took another cooking class with Chef Nat and was the only student. He learned how to make green mango salad, beaten steamed egg with shrimp, stir fried shrimp with asparagus, Thai fish cakes, and fried pineapple rice. Apparently one has to really throw the fish cakes down onto a block with a smack in order to get them to the right consistency. Here’s Ian and all the dishes he made (and now has to eat!):

I didn’t do anything quite so ambitious. I went for an hour oil foot massage at the Asia Herb Association. I was shown into a room and given a pair of comfy PJ bottoms to change into. The room only had one other woman in it and I sat on the most comfortable lazy boy chair ever. My massage therapist used generous portions of oil on my lower legs and feet and I have to say, the massage was incredibly relaxing.

Our journey in Bangkok ends and we head to Cambodia on flying on Air Asia. We will certainly miss all that the city offers but at the same time, we are ready to start our next adventure.